You Are Here | Part One
- Fawn Ellerbrook
- Sep 21
- 5 min read
In less than two weeks, we’ll be setting off for one of our favorite places on earth - beautiful Scotland. The crisp air. The rainy days. The greenest of greens. The mossy stone. The waterfalls. The mountains. The castles and abbeys and moody sea coastlines. Bliss upon bliss upon bliss.
It’s been two years since our first meeting, and I’ve dreamt of the day we would see her again. My heart is full of memories marked by peace and quiet, and the deeply satisfied, rested feeling of being home away from your own.
As I load the metaphorical film reel onto the projector for our viewing pleasure, take a moment to close your eyes and imagine a golden sun warming your face as the wind whistles and whips your hair ever so slightly. Bird chattering paints the air in the distance, and waves gently crash below you.
Your eyes flutter open to find the gentle blend of sky and sea, deep grey rocks standing tall along the shore, water swirling in an effortless dance among them. Stepping closer to the edge, you find yourself aware of your smallness, tucked into a grand scheme of beautiful creation, singing endless song around you. You are here.
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Dunnottar Castle
We made our way out of Edinburgh, stopping at Gently Mad, a quaint bookshop outside the city center. My husband, not a reader himself, always sits patiently while I wander in and out of pages. We strolled back to the car, and to our great shock, found ourselves sat on a side street digging unmentionable waste from the tread of our boots, a generous gift from an ill-stricken dog who left evidence of his malady smack in the middle of the sidewalk. Our makeshift shovel?
Chik-fil-a waffle chips. You do what you’ve gotta do.
Two hours later, we pulled into the parking lot of Dunnottar Castle. This striking juxtaposition of modern life and the remains of a 14th-century castle will never not leave me in awe. The site where Dunnottar rests emodies a vibrant history with evidence of inhabitants in the surrounding area thousands of years ago. From Christian missionaries to Vikings to Kings and Queens, the castle has been home and protector to a storied list of humans. You can learn more about its story on their website here. It was also temporarily home to a lion, who unfortunately was killed because the lady of the house felt it made too much noise. Perhaps it was a misunderstood expression of thanks for being locked in a soggy, seaside cage rather than roaming in the unbearably hot and sunny African Plains where the deer and antelope play. I digress.
Dunnottar Castle is situated on a 440-million-year-old rock formation off the coast, and requires a short trek down and back up steep stairs surrounded by bursts of chilly sea wind. You can read more about its history here. We visited in the afternoon, and most people chose to take photos from the adjacent cliffside, so we wandered about this ancient castle almost entirely alone. It was magic. The Castle itself is well preserved, and informational signs are strategically placed as not to take away from the scenery. Through the courtyard, you’ll find old stables as well as the Keep, built by Sir William Keith in 1392. (THIRTEEN NINETY TWO. Mind blown emoji.) In the kitchen where resourceful cooks baked bread in a massive oven, roasted meats, and simmered savory stews, you may close your eyes and hear the sounds of pots and pans clattering about as the daily meals were prepared. The upper level played host to the quarters where nobility resided with sweeping views of Dunnottar Cliffs and the North Sea. A mossy, dark room tucked below the main level, called “The Whig Vault,” sits as a reminder of Scotland's tumultuous political and religious history. (The two so often combined, when will we learn?) When 200 “Covenanters” were marched to Dunnottar in 1685,167 of the surviving group found themselves held in the vault for six weeks, facing torture, unsanitary conditions, and food & water only available by purchase from the guards.
Despite its complicated history, Dunnottar boasts a resilient beauty that has stood the test of time. As we made our way back to our car, soft afternoon sunlight peeked through stone walls, and delicate greenery danced in the sea breeze.
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Newburgh, Seal Beach, and New Slains Castle
Hoping to arrive at our next location by golden hour, we hopped into the car, driving through St. Andrews and the stunning Scottish countryside. We booked "The Beekeeper's Bothy" by the sea and were greeted by a dazzling sunset over the neighboring field dotted with sheep. This leg of the trip was a bit out of the way, but I really wanted to stay in these unique cabins featuring tall glass walls and nestled not too far from the sea. The next morning, I woke early to enjoy sunrise in the misty, cool air. I sat wrapped in a blanket as the colors filled the field in front of me, the sound and sight of the sea off in the distance.
Our goal was to drive through Cairngorms National Park on our way to Inverness, but after talking with our kind waitress at breakfast, we decided to ditch our plans and drive up the coastline to visit another castle, this one a little less official and much newer, but just as striking. After a stop at Newburgh Seal Beach to watch a cheeky bunch of seals swim and play in the bay, our journey North began. Since we hadn’t made a real plan to visit New Slains Castle, we ended up accidentally driving onto someone’s farm where the Old Slains Castle stands. As an American, it is mind-boggling that people live next door to a structure from the 13th century.
New Slains Castle is about 15-20 minutes North in Cruden Bay, situated on the most stunning cliffside, much like Dunnator. Built around 400 years ago by the head of a Scottish Clan, it has hosted many celebrities over the years, including Bram Stoker. It’s said to be the place that inspired the Gothic classic, Dracula, during his stay at a nearby cottage. While Slains doesn’t have any official visitor information, you’re free to wander (at your own risk) through the moss-covered hallways and winding staircases leading to the ghosts of upper levels - as I mentioned, at your own risk. Open windows dot the turrets, framing the cliffside like a moving portrait.
Small groups of people sit in the grass in Slains’ shadow, watching the water roar and tumble against the rocks. We walked down to the edge and admired the view, both harsh and breathtakingly beautiful. Sea water swirled and crashed, almost like a lullaby that could sing you to sleep if you found yourself a lucky guest a couple of hundred years ago. We snapped photos and admired the view before making the long walk back to the car park. A few days later, watching Netflix’s The Crown after another day of exploring, we noticed a familiar spot. There was the fictional Queen Mary standing in the exact spot we stood, admiring the same view we did on the cliffside beside Slains. What a fun surprise!
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Though I’m sure the Cairngorms would have provided stunning views and a peaceful forest (We’ll find out in a few weeks!), I’m so glad we took the advice of our waitress that morning. I love a good itinerary, but I love even more the satisfaction of a detour that ends in adventure better than you could have planned yourself. Standing where land meets sky meets sea, I’m reminded of the gift of being fully present wherever you are in the world. To breathe deeply and slow down. To sit in the soft grass as you admire the clouds and then watch them go by a bit. To wander and wonder. You are here. Isn’t it glorious?
