Raindrops on Cobblestone

In my normal, everyday life, I like to know what’s coming. I enjoy having a bit of a plan most days and having something specific to look forward to (which is usually a quiet night at home with my husband or all ALONE!). But Travel Fawn is much different. She thrives on spontaneity and puts up a strong fight against “should” and “supposed to.” She wakes early so she doesn’t miss a moment of adventure and does her best to live in the linger. This is where the magic happens - in the "uns." The unhurried moments soaked in the uncertainty of an afternoon unplanned.

The sky sends light drops to the cobblestone as we stroll down the Royal Mile amidst crowds of tourists from all corners of the world. A bagpiper plays a classic tune while people drop coins in a bucket and cars weave through a maze of pedestrians as they pose for selfies and make their way to the next shop. Tartans. Whiskey. Cheap key chains and magnets. It’s chilly and damp. Quintessential Edinburgh (the weather, that is). It’s the perfect time to step into a cozy cafe for lunch and coffee. 

Deacon’s House is nestled down a side alley off Scot’s Mile (aka the Royal Mile - which begins at Edinburgh Castle and ends at Holyrood House). We waited in “Bradie’s Close” with brick-lined walls leading to a quaint patio where you can enjoy your meal when it’s not too chilly! The interior of Deacon’s House feels like a sort of old-world cafe with paintings detailing local history, friendly staff, and the most delicious paninis + cappuccinos + baked goods! While it may be frequented by tourists, it was one of our favorite spots. We even returned for a quick lunch before flying back to London at the end of our trip and overheard locals gushing over it too! 

Properly warmed and full, we returned to the bustling (and not-so-shockingly still wet) street outside to wander a bit more. During our trip to Italy in 2022, we discovered a love of exploring old cathedrals and enjoyed basking in their unmatched artistry. I’ve had profound encounters with God standing quietly alone in a crowded room as He whispers reminders about who He is through the beauty of the architecture and imagery around me. So when we stumbled upon a 900-year-old cathedral while strolling down the street, we had to take a peek inside.

Stepping into St. Giles’ Cathedral was magnificent. I love how a cathedral can be nestled in the midst of car horns and street performers and still provide a quiet stillness unbothered by it all. A sort of portal to a warm shelter in a storm. The room was filled with wooden chairs for seating and thick, tall stone pillars that led to gorgeous carved lecterns. Straight ahead, the intricate stained glass provided an awe-inspiring backdrop to the arched ceilings. It’s easy to feel wrapped up in the details of the space. Truly stunning. We wandered along the side walls reading about the history and the tug-of-war between Catholicism and Protestantism. You can read more about this story on their website here.

St. Giles’ is also home to Thistle Chapel, a separate area tucked away toward the back of the Preston Aisle that hosts ceremonies for the Order of the Thistle. The room is much smaller in comparison but features beautifully carved stalls for 16 Knights in addition to the stalls designated for the Sovereign and several other Royals. Being from America, it’s a bit shocking to have the opportunity to walk in a place where prolific figures such as Queen Elizabeth and King Charles have stood themselves.

As you enter the iron-gated stone vault outside the room, you’re guided by the natural light spilling through the windows of the Chapel ahead. The first thing we noticed was the fragrance of wood filling the still air - it was like stepping into a storied antique shop filled with priceless treasures. Every stall is surrounded by expertly carved wood, a simple bench, and a variety of animals and angels. When a member is inducted into the Order, their coat of arms joins members past on the wall behind their stall, and the current occupant commissions a custom wooden statue placed far above their seat. Members are only replaced upon death.

Along with several other visitors, we take our time exploring the room and imagining the ceremonies that take place within. A Cathedral guide wields a pointer to highlight different areas of the room and we hang around to hear their stories (I’m always on the lookout for a secondhand tour moment). I snap a photo of a pulpit and another woman smiles at me, a small gesture of camaraderie. Each person in the room captures their own memory of the things they find special or interesting. It can often be fun to quietly observe what others choose to add to their photographic scrapbook.

Before leaving, we hear the Chapel employee describe the tile below our feet and learn that it’s from the Isle of Iona. It’s said this is the location where Scotland’s first recorded Christian worship took place. The Chapel also includes imagery of a Pelican, an early Roman symbol for Christianity.

Once back in the main part of the cathedral, we learned there would be a "Music from the Movies" concert that same evening. London Concertante, the UK's leading chamber orchestra, would be playing theme songs from popular films and TV shows lit by candlelight. Since we didn’t have reservations or solid plans, we secured last-minute tickets to attend, excited at the opportunity to return to this gorgeous building. 

With a few hours left before the concert, we wandered down Victoria Street - a winding cobblestone street reminiscent of Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter films. It’s dotted with colorful shopfronts and pennant flag banners overhead. Umbrellas bob up and down the sidewalks as people step into the street for photos and pop in and out of shops. We stop into a cute little art shop and peruse pieces created by local artists before making our way to a bookshop on a nearby street, grabbing a quick snack from a street food stall, and then heading back to our Airbnb to get ready for the concert. 

In order to avoid trouble with parking, we ordered an Uber to drive us back to the church. This is one of our favorite ways to get around while traveling because you get to meet people from all over the world! Our driver shared stories of her home country (Poland, I believe) and why she came to Edinburgh as she wove through stoplights and traffic before dropping us off. 

Seated in one of the chairs we walked by earlier in the day, we waited in anticipation as the lights dimmed and the ensemble took their seats. For the next two hours or so, we were dazzled by the natural acoustics as the cheeky concertmaster guided us through their selections for the evening. I was ecstatic when I heard the iconic notes of John Williams’ Jurassic Park Score - one of my absolute favorite movies and books! We laughed and smiled with one another as we relaxed into the simple fun of the moment.  

Sitting in a crowd of people, it felt like every piece played created our very own theme song. Each note and measure an accompaniment to the beginning of our adventure. A musical seal approving the adventure afoot. We would be in beautiful, magical Scotland for two weeks and we had no idea how enchanting the days ahead would become!

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Thanks so much for being here. IThis summer has been full and got off to a rocky start, but I promise my next post won't take four months! I'm excited to dig back into stories from this treasured trip as we approach our next adventure almost a year later! Time flies. And thank goodness, so can we! :)

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