At Home Far Away

Scotland Part One | Edinburgh

“Welcome home,” I felt Her whisper. It may be our first “hello,” but it was as if my heart had been there all along. 

Have you ever been somewhere that felt like home even though you’ve just met? Stepping out into the cool, moody, Edinburgh morning was precisely that. There was just something about the cloud-diffused light as we ventured out on our first full day in beautiful Scotland.

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It took over 24 hours of travel. A delayed flight from Dallas led to a missed flight from London. And then there was the challenge of navigating the ever-confusing parking spaces of the city. Oh, and in the process, Tim learned to drive on the UK side of the road while brushing up on his manual skills. (In case you’re wondering, I was totally chill and we never argued about it AT ALL.) All of it adds to the adventure and I wouldn't trade it for a thing. After months of planning and waiting, we were finally there! There's a special kind of magic when you breathe in air on the other side of the world.

During our transcontinental commute, two of our friends sent a generous gift instructing us to indulge in a fancy meal on our first night. Super grateful and not wanting to disappoint them (obviously!), we splurged on a fantastic meal at a local restaurant called The Educated Flea. The dining room being small, housed 10 or so tables. A group of friends laughed and talked joyfully as they made their way through each course. Life feels more connected here. Cell phones seemed rather unnoticed guests at restaurant tables throughout the trip.

Our tastebuds danced as we savored decadent pistachio feta dip (ok, I actually ate this entire appetizer myself because it was not Tim’s thing) and the “Big Cow” - a meal for two offering steak, perfectly crisp fries (all my gluten-free friends rejoice!), sauteéd mushrooms, greens, and a delectable assortment of sauces. Suffice it to say, it was the perfect “I haven’t eaten a real meal in over 24 hours” kind of meal. Honestly, it was just the perfect meal and I still think about it months later.

Dinner at The Educated Flea

Before this, I was recovering from a months-long struggle with Gastritis and I hadn’t been able to eat a wide variety of foods for much of that time. I was nervous about being out of the country, but I believe God cares about our cares and worries, no matter how big or small. It was my earnest prayer to eat freely and enjoy food on this trip without pain or flare-ups. And He answered. I am so grateful. So yes, being able to indulge in a delightful meal was an absolute gift! 

Filled to the brim, we stopped at the nearby Tesco Express to gather basic toiletries and laundry soap that would accompany us over the next couple of weeks. (Pro Tip: if you’re going somewhere with access to stores, buy these things when you arrive, especially if you are doing carry-ons!)

The buildings were all lit up as we drove the now quiet streets back to the AirBnb. It was a normal Thursday - friends walking home from dinner, residents turning out lights as they prepared to turn in for the night. A stillness settled in the air. After walking back up the spiral, concrete steps to our apartment, we showered and sank into bed ready for the adventure ahead.

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When we’re traveling, I prefer to rise early while my husband - Tim - typically likes to sleep in (we're opposite at home). I stood in the quiet kitchen taking my morning supplements and pinched myself. Our apartment was quaint, featuring uneven wooden floors, a raw-edge wooden countertop, and a funky, colorful tile backsplash. Shelves lined with plants framed a large window overlooking the courtyard. Heaven. 

Across the way in the other wing of the building, a man wiped his windows clean. Other apartments sat neat and tidy, the curtains pulled back to frame the room like a display. Lives are lived here. Stories are lived here. There’s a small part of me that craves a city life, even if only for a season. The air outside was damp and chilly. It would rain every single day of this trip. Glorious. Truly!

Tim navigated our way through morning traffic to get us to a car park at the base of Edinburgh Castle where we began the quarter-mile journey up the hill. I read it’s important to arrive early to secure a good place in the cue, and they were right! Thankfully we were one of the first people in line as it stacked up very quickly stretching down to the Royal Mile behind us. 

The castle is situated on top of the city in a stone fortress exuding confident strength. Atop the arched, stone entry a blue banner reads: “Nemo me impune lacessit.” No one provokes me without impunity. The Scots are a proud people. A resilient and strong people. 

Now, this next bit feels a little silly and counterintuitive. I’ve had trouble finding words to get beyond this point in the story because, well, this part of the day was a bit underwhelming. While I will take a day at a castle over a morning at the office (though I love my job) any day, in hindsight, I would have loved to make our first full day in Scotland a simple, wandering day. I think it’s important to note that not every part of exploring is magnanimous and sometimes things are disappointing just because you wish you would have planned differently. An experience can be cool, ok, and also not extra exhilarating. Even if it’s a perfectly good castle. :) Our motto when traveling is “you don’t know what you don’t know.” It gives me peace when things don’t go the way I hoped or thought they would.

All that being said, Edinburgh Castle is history still unfolding. Originally built over 900 years ago, it’s been home to reigning monarchs, Scottish military, and even an old military prison. The well-maintained fortress is seated at the top of a rocky hill overlooking the city and sea. Once you pass through the Portcullis Gate, a mossy stone path gives way to a row of canons ready to defend. 

One can imagine the allure of this locale immediately. The terrace provides the perfect spot to stop and take in the city. Old and new neighborhoods are woven together like good friends, perhaps like the generations of people who’ve dwelt there - a sociological tapestry. A breathtaking view of the hazy North Sea lies just beyond the Lieth neighborhood. It begins to mist and our Columbia rain jackets stand at the ready.

Our self-guided tour lasted a couple of hours. Once we perused the canons, peeked into St. Margart's Chapel (the oldest building in Edinburgh built in 1130), and soaked in the incredible views, we made our way to the Scottish National War Memorial. Inside there's a moving tribute to soldiers who’ve given their lives from WWI to the present day. Powerful words are etched into the stone around the room: To the glory of God & in memory of Scots who fell. The souls of the righteous are in the hand of God there shall no evil happen to them. They are in peace. Others also there are who perished unknown; their sacrifice is not forgotten, and their names, though lost to us, are written in the Books of God.

There’s always a sober, respectful silence when standing in front of monuments like this. I drew quiet breaths of gratitude for the gift of a largely peaceful life in our corner of the world. It’s so easy to detach ourselves from the brutality of our human history and forget the price paid for our modern, civilized life.

Continuing through the grounds at our own pace, we stopped to see the Scottish Honours - the oldest crown jewels in Britain - before the crowds descended. While you aren’t allowed to capture any photos in the room, you can see them online here by scrolling down the page. They dazzle! The artistry and excellence poured into ceremonial and symbolic pieces are enchanting. Nearby in the more ancient part of the Castle, stands David’s Tower. Once inside, you’ll see a small hole in the wall lit to show where these very crown jewels were hidden for safekeeping in case the UK fell to Germany during WWII!

As the morning progressed, tour groups began to fill the courtyards between buildings as they waited in line for the Jewels or listened studiously to their tour guide's remarks. Seeking refuge from the misty rain, we stepped into the Great Hall. 

Upon entering the room, you hear a faint buzz of chatter as people peruse the bold red walls lined with suits of armor, swords, and other weaponry. A group of women was planted in the middle, chatting. Laughing. I couldn't help but imagine the scene before me in split-screen view - this moment parallel to a King’s banquet filled with courtiers and honored guests. Centuries later, these walls remain a place to gather and connect. A place to learn from strangers as you innocently drop eaves. A place to observe cultures colliding around you. 

Like I said, it’s history unfolding. If we simply pay attention, we’ll see how connected we all are, no matter the miles and time zones in between. 

Hungry and ready to move on, we carefully walked down the slippery hillside cobblestone streets toward the Royal Mile. The sound of bagpipes filled the air as a well-clad busker played for eager tourists. And so it begins! 

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In my next post, we'll meander through the Royal Mile as we stop at a quaint cafe and visit St. Giles Cathedral...which led to one of our favorite moments of the trip! 

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P.S. If pistachio feta dip sounds as delightful to you as it does to me, here's a recipe I've made several times since we returned from our trip with rave reviews. Sláinte!